Reaching out directly to my Kawasaki brothers. I represent Titax. We manufacture forged aluminum wheels for most late model sportbikes. I'm running a promo to bring more exposure to our brand. We have a very small footprint over here currently. You find us at Motowheels.com if you search parts. We have a list price of $2199 but I am currently running a promo for $1800, free shipping and any color. We use top shelf Italian SKF Bearings and 30,000 Ton Forging. Which is way more than our competitors. Weight wise we weigh less than OZ but more importantly you can have zero fear of potholes or bad mono landings. You can put 4 people on that Zed and still have room for more. Rickey Gadson just put a set on his 500hp Gen 1 ZX10R. All the fitments listed will be shipped directly to the buyer in 3 weeks time. There isn't any extended wait times. If you are interested please email me directly at davesitra.69@gmail.com 0

More pictures.

More pictures.

Dave, is the sprocket carrier doweled to the rim or simply bolted?

hmmmm

I searched Motowheels.com for TITAX wheels and came up blank

I typed tit space then ax...

http://www.titax.com/

Sorry for the late reply but I just received the notification in my inbox that you replied. For whatever reason if you need info asap email me directly. davesitra.69@gmail.com

First question....The rotor carriers are bolted on to the wheel and your stock rotors with your hardware will bolt directly to them. With the rear wheel you have 5 studs/dowels as you said that are bolted to the sprocket carrier. They insert into the cush drive bushings leaving a gap of 3/16ths so they can move independently. Very similar to BST's Cush drive arrangement. I've attached some pictures that make it easier to see. Also the pictures above show the bushings without the sprocket carrier inserted. I run a Superlight 520 sprocket from the Spocketcenter.com. They also offer AFAM. Renthal and Sunstar Race Sprockets make fitments for our wheels but they are harder to acquire. If it fits BST or OZ it will fit ours. Inside diameter of sprocket 76mm, pitch circle diameter, 100mm. 5, M10 studs.

Motowheels.com is a work in progress. You have to use the brand search and scroll to Titax. They don't list all of our fitments currently but we will sort it. We offer fitments for most late model sportbikes.Im running the promo to get some sets into American hands and gets some reviews good or bad. I run a set on my first Gen ZX10R and I love them. They are lighter of course but way more rigid so they amplify your feel. Our design doesn't have that chunky fat hub look either. We also use a 30 Ton Forging...Carrozzeri for instance uses a 6000 pound forging. Our ALuminum is not made for civilian use. You will not bend these hitting pot holes..Messing up a mono etc. Anything I can help you with please let me know.

Dave, please refer to the picture you posted of a black rear wheel showing the cush drive without the sprocket carrier. Is the cush drive hub and wheel one piece or does the cush drive hub bolt to the wheel? If it bolts to the wheel, is it doweled or bolted only? I hope that clarifies my question...thanks for taking the time to answer it.
Hank

Hank, I work in the pits with this gp type setup. The black carrier directly above fits into that black wheel; if you scroll up to that wheel. It has rubber cushions for each dowel pin. I've changed so many sprockets when we change tracks, you can spin the carrier up in the air is like saying, where was that hole I started with? Nope, you just send it back in the wheel like a charm, and you'll know when it bottoms out being a nice tight fit you almost have to cock the walk home.

Who knows if they come from the same source? They look like the same quality I deal with. Super light. A wheel like that needs a racing swingarm. The inner ramps are the hot setup. Throw the wheel on the ramp's floor, then roll it up the ramp to hook the chain around, almost let the wheel come back on its own and slide the axle in. It's lightening fast work and out the pits you go.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/11/2021 @ 7:44 AM *

Hub, I understand that...I've had a good number of aftermarket wheels thru the years and have seen some failures caused in the design of the parts. Forget about the sprocket carrier, that's not really where my question lies.
To clarify my question, can the cush drive hub be removed from the wheel?
As an example, original design Carrezerria's had the cush drive hub bolt to the wheel with no dowels or locators to absorb torque. This led to many failures from the bolts working loose and then wallowing out the threads.
Carrezerria then redesigned the assy making the cush drive hub and wheel one piece. I can't tell how this wheel is designed from looking at the provided pictures. Capische?
Carra also provided 6061 alum wheel spacers and said to cut axle nut torque spec in half.
I didn't think that was a good idea on my turbo BB so I reman'd all the spacers out of a harder material.
That was gonna be my next question for Dave...
Overall, the wheels look real nice and are fairly priced but more aggressive pricing would really help to introduce a new product...just a thought.
Hank

Capische.

Next time I go to the shop I'll take a more carful look, but I believe it's cast in the wheel. I think these are bolt on. Dave threw enough pictures up see. The immediate one if we scroll up, look at the gutted gold rim without bearings or sprocket/disc carriers. Look at the wheel colors but the carriers are in black. Stake pins I don't see.

Comp Chrly and 'The Hand' and see if they can tear them off?

I'm trying to get you more pictures there is just a time delay between myself and manufacturing. If you look at the bare rear wheel you will see the two pieces interlock and then they are bolted. The hub on the wheel extends into the Cush Drive as well so you there is no shear forces on the bolts. Like I said they are on Rickey Gadson's 500hp Turbo so that will be a real world test also. Let me get the Schematic for clarification. We have had zero failures to date and we have a much larger foot print in Europe. Rest assured the 5 bolts are not the only mechanical connection between the wheel and cush drive. I will get confirmation on the aluminum we use for spacers but you would use standard torque manuf torque values. They way a turbo progressively makes power puts less stress that an instant hit of Nitrous. We don't use 6061 or 7075 on anything. 6061 is soft and easy to machine. 7075 is stronger but you run the risk of stress fractures. We use a proprietary AL that is a blend giving the best benefits of strength and durability. We have tortured them, dropped them...They are extremely strong. Our load limit is 1800kg. As soon as I get see the Schematic I will follow up. Thank you for all your questions and interest. One more thing, Price. Every forged wheel on the market sells from $500 to $600 more than my asking price. My own retail is $400 more. I'm not charging $150 for the bright colors like other manufacturers do either and there is free shipping. I paid $1500 for a set of PM's dealer price in 1993...they didnt have cush drive and they were flimsy. It's 2021 I really don't think $1800 is expensive at all. People have no problem spending over $2000 for an exhaus, or $700 for a new Bell Helmet. These take twice as long to make and your life depends on them. If you can get a group buy together we can work on the price. In addition thanks to Covid my Billets of Zetal AL we use in the Czech Republic are up more than 50%. A cost I'm eating. Please keep the questions coming and I will do my best to make things clear. I hope one of you buy a set and post a review ????